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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. However, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.